How Do I Install LVP Flooring?
Topics
- LVP
- Flooring
- Vinyl Plank
- Installation
- DIY
Answer
Luxury vinyl plank (LVP) is the most beginner-friendly flooring on the market — it floats over virtually any subfloor, cuts with a utility knife, and looks like hardwood. A 200-square-foot room takes a weekend.
What you need
- LVP flooring (order 10% extra for waste and diagonal cuts)
- Underlayment (if not pre-attached to the planks)
- Utility knife and a LVP snap cutter or circular saw
- Pull bar, tapping block, and rubber mallet
- Spacers for expansion gap (usually included)
Prep the subfloor
LVP can go over concrete, tile, and existing wood floors — but the subfloor must be flat. Flat means no humps or dips greater than 3/16 inch over 10 feet. High spots: sand or grind down. Low spots: fill with self-leveling underlayment compound.
Expansion gap
LVP expands and contracts with temperature. Always leave ¼ inch (or manufacturer specified) gap around all walls, pipes, cabinets, and any fixed objects. Use plastic spacers. The baseboard or quarter round hides this gap — never caulk or glue near walls.
Layout planning
Run planks parallel to the longest wall or in the direction of the most natural light. Measure the room width and the plank width to calculate the final row width. If the final row would be less than 2 inches, cut the first row narrower to achieve balance.
Installation
Start in a corner, spacers against the wall. Click the end joint of plank 2 into plank 1 at an angle, then press flat. Use a tapping block to close any small gaps. Stagger end joints by at least 6 inches between rows (avoid H-pattern joints).
Cutting
Score with a utility knife, snap over a straightedge. For notches around door frames: use a jab saw or oscillating tool. Undercut door casings with an oscillating tool so planks slide underneath for a clean look.
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